Pacific Journey: Seattle to Monterrey

The cruise was over, but not our vacation. We wanted to play in Seattle, for example.spaceneedle06-29-13

The iconic Space Needle was a necessity, of course. We actually did the Space Needle before the start of the cruise, but I’m throwing it in here.harvestmanb06-29-13

We could see Mount Rainer, Mount Baker, downtown, the Ferris Wheel, and even our cruise ship from the Space Needle, but my favorite spot was on a rooftop below, where giant harvestmen lurked. At least they didn’t also bob up and down, as live ones do!

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Of course, we had to visit the famous fish-throwing scene at Pike Place Fish Market.

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We also walked over to the nearby Post Alley to see the cool yet disgusting Market Theater Gum Wall. This wall is considered by some to be one of the top 5 germiest locations in the world, after the Blarney Stone. My teenage son was remarkably grossed out, but I got him to add his own gum to the wall (he threw his). I was brave and actually stuck my gum to the wall very, very carefully.

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Our day continued with excellent seafood, as well as a tour of Seattle’s historic Underground. It has to be one of the most unique and bizarre tales of urban renewal out there — definitely worth doing if you visit Seattle.

As the rest of our family headed back to Austin, the boys and I set out for the camping portion of our vacation. Our big plan was to head straight down to Big Sur and then take our time driving up the Pacific Coast as we returned north.

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We drove by Mount Rainier in Washington and even stopped in to the Mount St. Helens visitor’s center. But the clouds were too low for great pictures, so we headed on our way through Oregon and down into Northern California. The above rain cloud took my breath away, and it almost made the nearby Mount Shasta seem downright dull, despite its rainbow.

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Yet Mount Shasta is an impressive stratovolcano. Scientists consider it, like Mount Rainier, to be a dangerous threat for future eruption.

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As we drove farther south along Hwy. 5, the boys had a chance to see many of California’s vast orchards and farms. We saw olives, spinach, berries, and more, but I was most in awe of the huge sunflower fields.

monterrey07-08-13We drove past Stockton, then cut over to the coast, coming out right at Monterrey. We would be camping down at Big Sur, but since we were ahead of schedule we stopped in to enjoy this historic and beautiful town.birds07-10-13The Monterrey Peninsula is known for its beautiful scenery and wonderful wildlife. The coastal waters are home to harbor seals, sea otters, visiting whales, and many, many birds.seals07-07-13It always amazes me that harbor seals can flop themselves up onto such high rocks.seal07-08-13This little one was well camouflaged among the rocks — one had to look closely to see it (compare to photo above).pelicans07-08-13When you are pelican-obsessed like I am, it’s remarkably better to have a digital camera in your hand than a film camera. Brown pelicans always seem to be in migration when I visit California, and I love watching them fly by. Usually they are in a long line as they fly, but this group got a little wild and crazy.purplestripedjelly0710-13At the Monterrey Bay Aquarium, we oohed and aahed over marine life such as Purple-striped Jellyfish.eggyolkjelly0710-13 This is an equally beautiful Egg Yolk Jellyfish.tubeanemone0710-13Likewise, a tube anemone. I have to admit, Monterrey Bay Aquarium really is a good one, especially for families.shorebird07-09-13 bigsurdriveb07-08-13As our true destination was Big Sur, we headed down the beautiful Highway 1. As is always our luck, the fog rolled in just in time for our drive.bigsurdrivec07-08-13 coast07-08-13boysatbigsur07-08-13 But no worries, we loved it just the same.

Alaska: Ketchikan Kayaking and Orcas in Victoria (Canada)

From Sitka, Alaska, we headed to Ketchikan just in time to celebrate Independence Day.  ketchikan07-04-13

The town was preparing for their big July 4 parade. It would have been fun to join them, but our destination was the Tatoosh Islands for some kayaking.kayak07-04-13

What a beautiful place to kayak, and the weather was perfect. Well, it started out with a hint of rain, as always, but by the time we got in the tandem kayaks the sun was fully shining. ochreseastar07-04-13The water was surprisingly clear, too, and that meant we could see sea stars, jellyfish, and other marine life pretty well. Above is a Purple Ochre Sea Star, a keystone species. It helps encourage marine life diversity by controlling populations of the Common Mussel.harborsealpup07-04-13

This baby Harbor seal popped its head up as we headed through a mini channel between rocks.baldeagle07-04-13 A bald eagle stood watch from a rock near one of the Tatoosh Islands.baldeagleb07-04-13 It truly is a majestic bird and quite big — an adult can weigh up to 14 pounds. baldeaglec07-04-13 Bald eagles are stubborn birds. If they catch a fish too heavy to fly with, rather than drop it they’ll swim along awkwardly with their wings serving as paddles. daisy07-05-13Our final cruise stop was Victoria, British Columbia — a brief visit to Canada. I’d heard how beautiful this city is, but I’ll have to visit another time to truly see it. Our families voted to go look for killer whales, and so it was back to the ocean for us again.canadageese07-05-13 canadagosling07-05-13While boarding the tour boat, these Canada Geese swam over for a hello. It was nice getting to see Canada Geese while actually in Canada.

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The waters near Vancouver Island are home to many killer whales, all 3 primary types. Resident pods specialize in fish, typically salmon. Offshore killer whales hunt large oceanic fish and sharks. Transient orcas are the mammal hunters, looking for seals, sea lions, porpoises, dolphins, and whales. The three groups don’t intermix and they have different communication signals.

orca07-05-13 We watched a small family of resident orcas. They were very focused on foraging for fish in the kelp-heavy waters.orcab07-05-13 The killer whales were remarkably calm in their approach to getting food — swimming at easy speeds and occasionally curving into a deeper dive.
orcad07-05-13orcae07-05-13 Who would have thought watching killer whales would prove to be a relaxing activity?
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A beautiful sunset brought closure to our cruise. The next day, we spent a remaining tourist day in Seattle with our larger family group, and the boys and I prepped for the camping leg of our journey.

Alaska: Sitka, Sea Otters, and the Sound

After Glacier Bay, our next Alaskan stop was Sitka, a very quaint fishing town. Originally settled by the Tlinget people, there was also a period of time in which Sitka was the capital of Russian America. After the United States purchased Alaska from Russia in 1867, the formal transfer and flag raising took place in Sitka. Lots of history to the town!sitkai07-03-13

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It was raining when we first arrived, but it didn’t affect how scenic the setting was. Foxgloves and other flowers added beautiful color, and many salmonberry shrubs offered plentiful fruit. The greenery surrounding us was enhanced by the dampness.

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In Sitka, cedar totem poles record history or illustrate ancestry, folklore, or events of Southeast Alaskan native peoples. We found many of these along the Totem Walk at Sitka National Historical Park, a short distance from the center of town. Part of a coastal rainforest and filled with tall Sitka Spruce, the park also preserves the battlefield location of the 1804 Battle of Sitka, the last major armed battle between the Tlingit and Russians.

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Though each totem pole is unique, the sculptures might use common symbols. One symbol found on many Tlingit totems is that of the Raven, an important spirit in Tlingit culture. The Raven is considered both a cultural benefactor and a trickster.

bananaslug07-03-13 Thanks to the morning rain, large banana slugs found easy passage across the paths. Their slow pace make them pleasant photo subjects. This one was about 6 inches long.

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On our way back, I found this beautiful eagle feather on the path. I took a picture of it before taking it into the visitor center to give to a park ranger (it’s illegal to keep such feathers unless you have a permit or are culturally exempt — I didn’t want someone else to pick it up and get in big trouble for having it). Then I promptly washed my hands, which I would have done anyway, but the park ranger stressed that eagles carry all sorts of yucky stuff they can spread. I noted that she didn’t hurry to wash her hands after taking the feather to the back room, however. I preferred to stay salmonella- and mite-free.

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After seeing so many ravens depicted on totem poles at the park, I was amused that on our walk back into the main part of Sitka, several ravens greeted us with loud caws.sitkaa07-03-13sitkah07-03-13

A landmark structure in Sitka is the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, rebuilt after a 1966 fire. See the two bald eagles hanging out on top?

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I greatly admired this gray stone wall surrounding another church. At a modest height, the jagged top offers a slight deterrence to those who might climb over, while giving a unique quality to the perimeter.

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We were amused at this intersection’s sign, bringing together the names of two of historic rivals. However, it’s likely that the Jeff Davis they are referring to is not the Confederate president but the first commander of the Department of Alaska, since he played a role in Sitka’s history. I don’t know whether Lincoln refers to the great Abe himself, but I’ll go with that.

domino07-03-13 Taking a boat in Sitka Sound, we enjoyed plentiful wildlife, and by this time the rain had ceased completely. Above is a friendly, well-known humpback whale named Domino.
dominoc07-03-13 Here’s what is known as a whale footprint, a slick spot that forms as a whale thrusts its fluke up and down underwater.dominod07-03-13 Not only does Domino have distinct black spots on his fluke, the growth of barnacles at the tips is an additional identification mark for this handsome whale.dominoswim07-03-13
seals07-02-13Near these tiny islands, mere rock outcrops, a large group of harbor seals basked, played, and fed.
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There were a great number of bald eagles, almost every direction we turned.eagle07-03-13

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This group of scoters included White-winged and Surf Scoters. We also saw lots of Marbled Murrelets and, of course, gulls.

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The surrounding forested mountains were quite beautiful, with waterfalls cascading here and there.

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Near this river’s mouth, salmon were practicing their jumps, almost ready to spawn.sitkae07-03-13sitkad07-03-13

A hungry harbor seal was clever enough to take advantage of the presence of so many fish.

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A lone Sitka Black-tailed deer fed on a nearby shore.seaotter07-02-13I can probably safely say, however, that despite the large variety of wildlife we saw in Sitka, our family enjoyed the sea otters most of all (though for some reason that harbor seal going after the jumping salmon still stays on my mind).seaotterb07-02-13 seaotterc07-02-13 They’d roll and preen and dive and eat, and they’d preen some more. seaottersd07-03-13I’m so happy their numbers have been going up — they were hunted almost to extinction by fur traders. Sea otters are still listed as endangered, however. Sea otters are a keynote species, keeping the population of sea urchins and other kelp-eaters under control and thus protecting the habitat that provides shelter and food for so many other marine animals.

The next stop on our journey was Ketchikan for some kayaking, followed by Victoria for some orca sightings. I’ll combine the two — far fewer pictures to share, as it’s hard to take a lot of pictures while kayaking!

Alaska: Glacier Bay and Calving

After Juneau, our ship took us to Glacier Bay, an area that just 250 years ago was all glacier and no bay. glacierbay07-02-13

The massive river of ice reached its maximum extent by 1750, gouging the land as it moved along, and within 45 years it had melted back 5 miles, creating Glacier Bay. The glacier continued to retreat north, and what remain (now 65 miles into the bay) are several smaller tidewater glaciers flowing from mountain to sea.

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The bay itself is filled with cold, nutrient-rich water and abundant marine life. Surrounding it are young forests, able to grow with the departure of massive ice, though of course pockets remain even throughout summer.

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The bay’s tidewater glaciers are accessible only by plane or boat. Perhaps the most impressive is Margerie Glacier, seen in this panoramic image from my husband (click to enlarge). This glacier is about 1-mile wide, 21-miles long, and at its face 250 feet above the water (another 100 feet of the glacier extends down into the water). The glacier flows into the Tarr Inlet of the West Arm of the bay.

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In areas of pure compressed snow and ice, the result was a breathtaking blue color that I couldn’t get enough of.margeriec07-02-13

I also loved the jagged ice peaks, an effective contrast to the soothing colors.

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Such jaggedness is not something one usually pictures when glaciers are typically described as slow moving rivers of ice. But there they are, formed as the ice fractures time and again.margerief07-02-13

As much as I loved the blue, even the patterns of debris-rich ice were beautiful.

margeriecalvingb07-02-13Calving is the sudden breaking away of ice from a glacier, forming icebergs and the like. Margerie Glacier calves actively all year long. Sometimes, falling ice might simply be small chunks, and by that I mean ones the size of Volkswagon Beetles or school buses.

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This larger chunk, on the other hand, was about 80 feet tall, the size of an 8-story building. Large ice sections produced massive splash and impressive waves.

Here’s the full sequence of shots as the chunk fell away.glaciercalving3

I wish I could have added in sound effects. Cracking sounds, teasers of potential calving, are like rifle shots — loud and crisp. But an actual fall of ice is a thunderous roar combined with loud splashing and waves.

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Where the glacier dropped ice with a big splash and also where the propellers from our ship churned up water, sea gulls, like this Glaucous-winged Gull, flocked to take advantage of the disturbed fish and other marine life coming closer to the surface. Note the gray wing tips and orange feet as it flies.

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The Black-legged Kittiwake, on the other hand, has black wingtips and, of course, black legs. Many Kittiwakes joined their gray-tipped gull cousins as they foraged the cold waters for food.

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In down time, the gulls rested on the floating ice chunks and preened their feathers. They are able to do this without frostbite to their feet, thanks to a remarkable circulatory arrangement, called a countercurrent heat exchange system, which minimizes temperature differences between the feet and the ice. The arteries and veins in the birds’ legs and feet are very near each other. This means that arterial blood from the body’s core is already cooled by the time it reaches the feet, while cooler veins are warmed by the arterial blood before it returns into the body. Pretty cool, eh — literally and figuratively.

grizzlyb07-02-13As we headed to other glaciers, we spotted this Grizzly Bear walking up a hill. From the ship, it was a mere dot and almost impossible to see without a zoom lens or binoculars.

glacier07-02-13Lamplugh Glacier, 8-miles long and about 3/4-mile wide, is another glacier in the West Arm of the bay.
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It had a large glacial cave, fascinating and beautiful in its own right.lamplughcaveb07-02-13

Inside the cave, melting ice flowing through cracks in the glacier created a fast-flowing stream.

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Another beauty was Reid Glacier, also found on the western arm of the bay.

I’m very grateful for the chance to see these amazing glaciers, as 95 percent of the 100,000 glaciers found in Alaska are actively thinning or retreating at unprecedented rates due to climate change. I wonder whether Alaska’s glaciers will even exist a few decades from now.

The remainder of the day and evening we traveled toward Sitka, our next port stop.

Alaska: Juneau Whale-Watching and Glacier Visit

Two and half weeks of vacation. Zero caffeine. Success.

The family and I just got back from a two-part summer vacation. During the first week, we enjoyed a pleasant Alaskan cruise with my husband’s family. The boys and I then extended our fun by traveling and camping along the Pacific Coast from Washington to Oregon to California, then back again.

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Our journey began in Seattle, but I’ll focus on that in a later post. Our first Alaskan destination was Juneau. Though the captain promised sunshine and warm weather, we arrived to find rain, fog, heavy clouds, and cool temperatures.

juneaufog07-01-13In fact, fog became the norm for our vacation, so much so that it became downright amusing. But that’s to be expected of the Pacific Coast in July.

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Fireweed

At least I can say that the worst of the rain for the whole vacation happened on this day in Juneau for us. And by that, I mean it poured substantially the whole day. My hiking boots took 3 days to dry out.

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Because our helicopter flight was cancelled due to the poor weather, we instead visited Mendenhall Glacier and went whale watching in Auke Bay. Whales and glaciers don’t mind the rain!

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Mendenhall is a 12-mile long glacier that extends from the Juneau Icefield. Nearby are the powerful Nugget Falls. My son and I got fully soaked right down to our toes during our hike to the falls, but it was worth it.

humpbacks07-01-13The real cold and wet fun came when we went whale watching in Auke Bay. Several humpback whales were in sight. These three stayed close together, feeding and taking breaths in near sync.humpbackfluke07-01-13

A visible fluke indicates that a whale is diving deeper into the water and likely will stay down for a few minutes.

humpbackbreechMOb07-01-13Across the bay, a solitary humpback breached several times. Oh how we wished our boat had been closer!humpbackbreechMOa07-01-13Even across the bay, the sight was thrilling.stellarsealions07-01-13

On the way back, our boat passed a channel marker that serves as a popular resting spot for bossy Stellar Sea Lion juveniles. The sea lion in the water kept trying to get on the platform, but those already on top kept pushing him back off.

Though our plans for the day had to be modified because of the weather, we still had a great time. Next up, glacier calving!

Westward Bound: Wyoming, South Dakota, Kansas

If you’ve been following my recent posts, I’ve been documenting some of the beautiful places we visited on this summer’s vacation, from Bryce to Zion to Grand Teton to Yellowstone. Not yet finished, we turned toward eastern Wyoming and South Dakota for the final leg of our journey.

East of Yellowstone, Wyoming has a classic rugged landscape, wild and rough, rocky and brush-covered, very much what I’d always envisioned.

While we were only passing through this area on our way from Yellowstone to South Dakota, the scenery was spectacular, weaving us past remarkable geological formations and gradually transitioning us from the tall peaks of the Rocky Mountains to the more open Great Plains.We kept to the driving plan, intending to reach South Dakota that very day, so we only paused now and again to take in the peaceful surroundings. We did stop briefly for lunch in Cody, Wyoming, and even ate at the Irma, the hotel and saloon made famous by Buffalo Bill. (As nice as that might sound, I’ll warn you that the food and service were quite a disappointment. At least the historic atmosphere was something to offer the boys.)

But South Dakota was the goal, home to the Black Hills and Mount Rushmore and the Badlands. We arrived in a most impressive lightning storm, which made our drive through the winding roads of the Black Hills most, uh, thrilling. Fortunately, by morning the skies were clear, and the storm had no lasting impact on our journey.

Pronghorn

We camped near Custer State Park, so we started with a driving tour of the park to look for wildlife (okay, admittedly we slept in the car that night rather than set up our tent in the pouring rain at the campsite). A family of pronghorns greeted us a few miles in, but the most impressive numbers were of American Bison.

American BisonCuster State Park maintains a population of about 1,300 Bison.

With such a large group, we saw bison of all ages.

There were many nursing calves with their mamas.

But it was also bison rut season. Many an older bull walked around with his intended mate, not leaving her side for a moment. Aside from literally pushing her around (I guess that’s where the term “bullying” originated?), the male would made deep guttural noises at the female, his tongue sticking out in the process. I was mesmerized by the bulls’ behavior, though I should point out that I find neither bullying nor tongues sticking out with simultaneous rumbling attractive in a man.

But watching a bison rut was fascinating. At one point a group charged forward, aiming right for my car. The best I could do was roll up my window and say a word of apology to my car in case it got gored, but they all passed on by. Aside from knowing that one of them was a big bull, I didn’t have a chance to notice the others in the group. I wasn’t sure whether the big bull was bossing females or giving chase to a foolish younger bull who strayed to close to the already-claimed girls, making them all run. It’s amazing how small a car can seem when these big herbivores are rushing toward you.

Even now I can look at these pictures and hear the deep grunts of the males.

Bison wallowingThis big male is wallowing in the dirt. While many bison will do this to when biting flies bother them or when they are molting, in rut season male bulls do this to both leave their scent and display their dominance.

Elsewhere at the state park, we saw wild donkeys, descendants of pack animals once used to reach the summit of Harney Peak, South Dakota’s highest point.

If visitors pay attention, they might also notice small mounds around. Prairie dogs!

These small rodents might be vilified by farmers and ranchers, but in the natural world they are an important keystone species. Their demise would result in the subsequent demise of many other species, some who depend on prairie dogs as prey and others who depend on the prairie dogs’ engineering role in the environment.

For example, prairie dogs are the primary food source for the endangered black-footed ferret, once thought to be extinct after prairie dog populations greatly declined, a result of habitat loss, extreme control methods, and disease. Burrowing Owls and Mountain Plovers build their nests in prairie dog burrows. Additionally, prairie dogs’ burrowing and grazing habitats improve soil quality, nutrient cycling, plant and animal diversity, soil water retention, and other ecosystem processes. Plus, prairie dogs kiss each other in greeting, and that’s just too cute.

Mount Rushmore

From Custer State Park, we headed back up to Mount Rushmore, which we had viewed for the first time during our nighttime drive in the treacherous storm of the night before. Up and down the switchback-heavy Iron Mountain we went, and short one-lane tunnels created occasional frames of the national monument. A new meaning to the phrase “tunnel vision”!

Mount Rushmore

Mount Rushmore was the brainchild of South Dakota State Historian Doane Robinson and the grand masterpiece of artist Gutzom Borglum, who worked on the sculpture until his death in March 1941. I have mixed feelings about the monument, as I don’t like to see natural beauty marred and there is obvious controversy regarding the land being taken from the Lakota Sioux, but I acknowledge the power of the symbol for American patriotism and the phenomenal artistry and work of engineering that went into the giant carving.

The site was selected for its excellent granite and southeast facing, ideal for light. The surrounding Southern Black Hills is covered with Ponderosa Pines.

The carving depicts four of the United States’ most important historical figures and Presidents: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln. In creating his design, Borglum made multiple models of the four Presidents, and he used these as guides for the mountain sculpture. Construction officially began in 1927.

Most of the sculpting work was done with the skilled use of explosives. The finer details were created and smoothed out with pneumatic drills, chisels, and pneumatic hammers. The work was dangerous, men dangling off the cliff for hours each day, but no one died during the project (however, the breathing of granite dust did cause lung damage for some workers).

Each face is 60 feet tall, and each nose is 20-21 feet long. The mouths are 18 feet wide, and the eyes are 11 feet wide.

Throughout the process, Borglum carefully studied the light and progress from all angles, and he made changes accordingly to make use of shadow and rock to create the facial features. His careful guidance and use of a pointer tool on both the models and the giant carvings helped workers follow his instructions and precise measurements exactly.Mount Rushmore

The faces were completed by 1939. But the original plan had been to show the the Presidents’ torsos. When Gutzom Borglum died in 1941, his son Lincoln carried on the construction for a few more months, until lack of funding brought an end to the construction. Take a closer look at the four Presidents in the images above. You will see some of George Washington’s clothing, as well as the partial fist of Abraham Lincoln.

It’s interesting to note that there had been an attempt in 1935 to include feminist leader and suffragette Susan B. Anthony to the four figures of Mount Rushmore. However, Congress defeated this motion. I’d like to think that her face among the other historical figures would have been a powerful symbol of pride for American women, and perhaps some of the issues in today’s political arena — namely, women’s rights and equality for women — would be a given rather than a continuing battle.

Badlands

From Mount Rushmore, we headed next to Badlands National Park. Not really knowing what to expect, it was still what we expected, if that makes sense — striking geologic formations affected by years of erosion and deposition.Badlands

Badlands

An ancient sea covered the area some 69 million years ago, and deposits of sediments began. After the sea retreated, more sediments were deposited with successive land environments. It wasn’t until about 500,000 years ago that erosion became a major factor in the shaping of the land, and erosion continues to change the area.

Badlands

Though the Badlands’ deep canyons and buttes at first appear harsh and desolate, there is life all around. Much of the park is mixed-grass prairie and home to all sorts of wildlife, including prairie dogs and badgers, birds and bison, bighorn sheep and bobcats, insects and reptiles, and more.

Black-billed Magpie

Though the only mammals we saw personally during our Badlands visit were small chipmunks, we did see many birds, including this Black-billed Magpie.

Badlands

While it’s hard to fall in love with the Badlands, their rugged beauty cannot be denied, especially when the sunlight and/or rain shows their beautiful coloration.

At last it was time to head home to Texas. Along the way, we stayed overnight at our friends Cynthia and Pat’s farm in Kansas.

Beautiful and buzzing with hummingbirds — of course I was delighted! We enjoyed a wonderful visit, delicious food, and great company. A big thank you to our hosts!

Of course a farm isn’t complete without bunnies, not that farmers would agree with that statement.

But I didn’t mind the quiet moments I spent with this rabbit, who contentedly posed for the camera while enjoying a bit of grass.

What a year of traveling this has been! With our Everglades trip in March, then our summer trip to Utah, Wyoming, and South Dakota, we have traveled many thousands of miles and covered a big chunk of the United States! The varying beauty of this great land and all its rich history, the positive and the negative, are opening my boys’ eyes globally, giving them a sense of both who they are in this world and a better understanding and appreciation of the world they should value and protect. If you’ve thought about making similar trips on your own or with your family, I encourage you to do so as soon as you can!

Thanks for journeying with us — M

Westward Bound: Yellowstone, the Wild

Yellowstone offers so much to the human visitor — spectacular hydrothermal features, fantastic wildlife viewing, blue waters, gorgeous habitat, and outdoor adventures. During my previous post, I took a detailed look at the volcanic nature of Yellowstone, so with this post I turn my camera lens to the classic beauty of this grand environment, along with its wilder side.

Because the majesty of Yellowstone speaks for itself, I’m not going to interject with a lot of text this time. Just sit back and enjoy….

American Bald Eagle

American Bison

Purple Gentian

American Bison

American Bison in fog

Emerging from the wet and fog…

American Bison in fog

Bison scat, providing nutrients for Melissa Blue butterflies.
Note the germinating seeds, as well. Bison scat
plays an important role in the Yellowstone ecosystem!

Uinta Ground Squirrel

Uinta Ground Squirrel

Dark-eyed Junco, Pink-Sided

A Dark-eyed Junco, Pink-sided variation, comes in to snatch one of the
puddling Fritillaries

Dark-eyed Junco, Pink-sided

Got it!

Tower Falls

Bison scat

There is a mama grizzly bear and her two cubs in the picture above. No, really! They were wandering among the sage bushes, not minding the bison nearby, but they were hard to see. We could only successfully view them through another person’s powerful scope. Happily, though, we got our closer look at grizzlies in Grand Teton NP. Across the road from the scene above, we also got a look at our first wolf, again through someone’s scope.

Petrified Tree, Yellowstone

Petrified Tree

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

View of the Lower Falls at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

American Robin

The wee little ducklings got nervous that I took their picture, even
with a zoom lens used from far away. Alas!

American Raven — crr-rr-uck!

Forest Regrowth After Fire

Regrowth after one of Yellowstone’s wildfires.
In some areas, new pines have grown many feet tall.

While walking to see an elk, avoid jumping in sulfur-smelling mud.
Tread softly and carry a big zoom lens, my friends.

Bull elk, Yellowstone

Elk in Yellowstone

Osprey flying over Firehole River

Big Dipper

 My husband’s first experiment with astrophotography — the Big Dipper

Yellowstone was everything we imagined and more. Thank goodness for men like geologist Ferdinand Hayden, along with painter Thomas Moran and photographer William Henry Jackson, who had the foresight to convince President Ulysses Grant and Congress in 1872 to declare Yellowstone the first American national park, protecting it and its wildlife within and opening the door to the protection of many of our other environmental treasures. That’s not to say that mistakes haven’t been made — the story of Yellowstone’s wolves and bears as an example — but lessons are being learned. Love nature and protect it!

After leaving Yellowstone and dropping my husband off at the Jackson airport, the boys and I headed east toward South Dakota, our last big destination before turning south toward home. Until the next post….

Westward Bound: Yellowstone, the Volcano

Having left Grand Teton National Park on our 2012 summer vacation, we headed the short distance up the road to the well-known Yellowstone National Park for the next leg of our adventure. And just like that, we entered a world completely different from the Teton area. For all the words and pictures you might see about Yellowstone, use it as incentive to get yourself there, for nothing can do this amazing place justice other than the place itself.Grand Prismatic Spring

If you get caught up in the dramatic scenery and wildlife of Yellowstone and forget that you are sitting on a big volcano, Yellowstone takes care to remind you of this at every turn. Today’s post will highlight Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features, and the next post will take a look at the wilder side of Yellowstone.

Grand Prismatic SpringYellowstone is home to some 10,000 hydrothermal features. Aside from hundreds of geysers, the national park also has hot springs, mudpots, and fumaroles, or steam vents. These first images show one of my favorite hot spots, so to speak — Grand Prismatic Spring.Grand Prismatic Spring

Grand Prismatic Spring is located in the Midway Geyser Basin at Yellowstone. Its rainbow-reminiscent colors are due to different types of microscopic thermophiles — bacteria, archaea, algae, and others — that tolerate specific temperature ranges of hot water. The deep center of the spring, reaching 121 feet down, is a vivid blue, its extremely hot temperature of 188 degrees F (87 degrees C) keeping species of thermophiles from taking hold. From there, as the water moves outward to the surface, the water cools, and thermophiles that thrive in specific temperatures begin to  create communities. From the deep blue, colors transition to greens and yellows (167F/75C), then to oranges, rusts, and reds, and finally browns in the coolest temperatures (around 90F). Where the cooler water flows over the surrounding landscape, thriving bacteria and archaea create colorful orange, red, and brown mats .

Bacteria mats at Grand Prismatic Spring

Bacteria mats are fascinating, and you’ll see more pictures throughout this post, for I consider them to show some of nature’s finest artistry. That thermophiles can survive in such extreme heat seems surprising, and it’s one reason they weren’t discovered until the late 1960s (in Yellowstone, in fact). Additionally, some thermophiles need acidic conditions, others alkaline, and some require the presence of sulphur or calcium carbonate. Up to dozens of thermophile species can be present in any given community, depending on their requirements and/or limitations.

If you hike up a steep slope off the nearby Fairy Falls trail, you can get a unique view of Grand Prismatic Spring. We now refer this area as Pant-Ripper Mountain. And that’s enough of that story.

However, I will say that my pants earned their very own Yellowstone patch.

Old Faithful

Though Grand Prismatic Spring might have been my personal favorite hydrothermal feature at Yellowstone, the best known features are likely the geysers, especially (say it with me) Old Faithful. We arrived in the early morning to see it, and we enjoyed a crowd-free view of this classic eruption. Old Faithful reaches 135 feet or more in height and erupts every 90 minutes or so. The park rangers actually use a formula to predict the expected time of the eruption, plus or minus 10 minutes.

Old Faithful

Though Old Faithful might be the most famous, it is actually just one of many geysers in the Upper Geyser Basin area. In fact, the majority of the world’s active geysers are found here, including five predictable ones. Trails and boardwalks take you along Geyser Hill and beyond, where you can observe many thermal features in action. The Anemone geyser in the foreground of this Old Faithful image bubbled for us right up until Old Faithful erupted. We just had bad luck, however — its eruptions are not connected to the big guy. Anemone actually erupts to about 6 feet every 7 to 10 minutes.

We did have great luck to be near the Beehive geyser just as it was getting ready to erupt. First, the indicator vent let loose, prompting folks to gather around for the big event to come. Some of them pulled out rain ponchos, too — clearly they knew something….

Beehive GeyserA few minutes later, Beehive let loose in a thrilling display. Its powerful water column can reach heights up to 200 feet. Because it is close to the boardwalk, water droplets will sometimes drench the crowds in temporary rain, which fortunately is remarkably cool by the time it comes down. Again, we had luck — the wind shifted to our left just as Beehive erupted, soaking other visitors but not us and most importantly not our cameras. And by the way, I really do mean soaking for those other poor folks.

Grand GeyserAnother lucky moment for us was being on hand for the eruption of the grand geyser that is cleverly known as Grand Geyser. It also can reach 200 feet, and its display is as impressive as its name implies.

The walking trail takes you past numerous other hydrothermal features, some with impressive sinter formations. Siliceous sinter comes from deposits of silica dissolved by hot water passing through rock called rhyolite. Above, you can see a thin sinter crust around Heart Spring. The deep blue color of the hot spring indicates that this water is super hot, so hot that even Yellowstone’s heat-loving algae and bacteria can’t survive.Abyss Pool

Another example of a deep blue hot spring at Yellowstone is the Abyss Pool, which is located in the West Thumb Geyser Basin. Its depths reach 53 feet. This pool was once described in 1883 as “a great, pure, sparkling sapphire rippling with heat.”

Yellowstone LakeThe West Thumb Geyser Basin, by the way, overlooks the large, blue Yellowstone Lake, and many hydrothermal features can be found right along the edge of the lake, as well as IN the lake.

Why do all these hydrothermal features exist at Yellowstone? Simply stated, Yellowstone is on top of a large volcano. This supervolcano erupted 2.1 million, 1.3 million, and 640,000 years ago, forming three overlapping calderas, or geographic depressions. The last major eruption formed the Yellowstone caldera that would one day become the bulk of park we know and love. The Yellowstone caldera sits on top a giant hotspot. Magma flows as close as 2-5 miles below the surface, releasing tremendous heat. Water from snow and rain fills the underground plumbing and gets heated, sometimes to super temperatures of 400 degrees Fahrenheit when pressurized. It is this heating of water, combined with many small earthquakes and other natural processes affecting underground channels, that give Yellowstone its dynamic, impressive, and quite numerous hydrothermal features. The above photo shows that some of these changes can occur in the most unexpected places.

Great Fountain Geyser

This image shows the sinter at the base of the Great Fountain Geyser, located in the Fountain Paint Pot Area. Though we didn’t get to see the geyser erupt, the steam and sinter were so beautiful and unique that I wasn’t the least bit disappointed. Apparently a sunset eruption is truly worth seeing if your timing is right, however.

The change to the landscape as a result of the presence of hydrothermal activity is quite eye-catching, and I love the contrast it makes with surrounding creeks, rivers, blue sky, and green trees and other plants.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Perhaps the best example of altered landscape is at Mammoth Hot Springs, a unique area at Yellowstone due to the dominant rock being limestone instead of rhyolite.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Mammoth Hot SpringsHere, dissolved calcium carbonate from hot water rising through the limestone is deposited in the form of travertine.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Such rock forms the massive terraces found at Mammoth Hot Springs, developing slowly over many, many thousands of years..

But I found some of the prettiest artistry when I looked down for a closer look, where thermophiles and mineral deposits create tapestries of colors and shapes.

Whether this formation is a bacterial or mineral formation, that it follows the shape of the fallen pine tree piece is fascinating beyond words.

This bacterial mat at Black Sand Basin, back  near Old Faithful, might not be beautiful in everyone’s eyes, but if you think about the variety of microscopic communities this mat shows, you just have to be amazed. Thermophile communities can form ribbons or streamers, columns, and wide-spreading mats of varying colors, and any seemingly endless combinations and appearances therein.

Cliff Geyser

If you’re not crazy about the bacterial mat so vibrant at Black Sand Basin, just turn around and get this view instead of Cliff Geyser.

Mudpot

Of course, Yellowstone has its ever-fun mudpots making their “bloop-bloop” sounds, and one should always be prepared to smell the sulfur-related rotten egg smells wherever thermal features with hydrogren sulfide exist. To truly appreciate both, visit the Mud Volcano Trail. The hydrothermal features in this area are some of the most acidic in the park, some with a pH of 1, which is comparable to battery acid. There’s plenty of rotten-egg smell to delight the senses, as well!

Norris Geyser Basin is another highly acidic area and holds some of the park’s hottest hydrothermal features, many of which can reach temperatures above the boiling point (200 degrees Fahrenheit at Yellowstone’s elevation). Because it sits at the intersection of three faults that happen to also meet on an active volcano, changes occur at Norris Geyser Basin every year — new thermal features appear while others go dormant, or they exhibit behavioral changes. The above photo shows the view from the overlook at Porcelain Basin, which is in the Norris Geyser Basin area. The large amount of steam on the left is coming from the Black Growler Steam Vent, a fumarole.

How do plants and wildlife thrive around all these intensely hot, alkaline or acidic, and ever-volatile features? Well, many birds like the young Killdeer above enjoy flies that feast upon thermophilic bacteria at the edge of hot springs. This Killdeer walks along brown thermophilic mats, which indicates the temperature is around 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit. Hot yes, but okay for a bird to walk along.

This American bison had us worried when we saw it laying down on Geyser Hill near Old Faithful, but it was still breathing — we checked (from afar). It turns out he’s an older Bison, and perhaps the warm geyser area made a good sleeping spot. He got up and wandered away after a few minutes. But quite often we would spot Bison scat and other droppings in hydrothermal areas. It’s important to recognize that there is still danger here — a Bison or Elk walking too close to the fragile crust near a geyser or hot spring could suffer a traumatic death.

Many plants thrive despite their warm-water surroundings. The Bison scat mentioned above actually has great effects on the landscape surrounding hydrothermal areas. The seed- and nutrient-rich droppings of Bison and Elk allow grasses to grow where once there was none.

But other plants succumb to the effects created by the presence of heat, silica, or pH. A change in hot water flow can suddenly kill off old-growth pines. Geysers spray silica-rich waters, which can flow around nearby pine trees. This will eventually kill the trees because they will effectively drink up this water, drawing silica into their roots and trunks, which will harden over time until the plants die. But where some plants no longer live, other areas will support new growth. Nature continues.

Here are a few other images of Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features worth sharing:

Emerald Pool, Yellowstone

Emerald Pool at Black Sand Basin

Dragon's Mouth Spring

Dragon’s Mouth Spring along the Mud Volcano Trail — the Crow once imagined the steam as snorts from an angry bisonClepsydra Geyser

Clepsydra Geyser, a nearly constant performer

Morning Glory Pool

The famous Morning Glory Pool, no longer at its finest due to years of people throwing coins and other trash into it until water circulation became greatly diminished.

In the next post, I’ll take a look at the wilder side of Yellowstone — the rivers and trees and wildflowers and animals that make this national park one of the most beautiful natural habitats still in existence.

Westward Bound: Grand Teton National Park, WY

Leaving Zion National Park on our 2012 summer trip, we traveled north to Jackson, WY, stopping in Salt Lake City, UT, for a replenishment of gluten-free camping foods. The next big destination? Grand Teton National Park. “Grand” is an appropriate adjective for this place, as well as its highest mountain — the Grand Teton itself, with an elevation of about 13,770 feet. Here we also picked up my husband from the Jackson airport, and new fun-filled adventures began.

Below is another shot of the family — this became a fun and favorite way for us to do family photos at any particularly spot, but it drove nearby visitors crazy, who promptly volunteered to take a normal group shot for us. We obliged for their sake. 🙂

Even so, we redid this photo several times, because Logan’s head kept blocking out the Grand Teton (not that we were surprised). We finally got one showing Grand Teton, but then Nolan’s head got cut out of the picture. Alas.

The Teton range lies adjacent on the western side to the beautiful Jackson Hole valley, which includes open plains, scenic lakes, winding rivers and creeks, and forested areas. On the eastern side of the valley sits the Gros Ventre range (pronounced groh-VAHNT). All around, gorgeous colors, fresh air, and fantastic hiking trails and wildlife viewing meant we were in nature heaven. The bison above, mamas and calves, made their appearance just as the sun was setting.

If you love hiking, Grand Teton aims to please. We put our muscles and our lungs to good use. One hiking trail took us around Jenny Lake, the color of which was such an enticing blue. It’s just as pretty when you canoe on it.

The same hike takes you to Hidden Falls. I was imagining a high, narrow waterfall would appear, but Hidden Falls was all power and roar — such a delight!

We also hiked up to Taggart Lake and Bradley Lake. The trails here gave fantastic mountain views.

Grand Teton National Park in summer still has many beautiful wildflowers, such as Indian Paintbrush.

One of my favorites was Monkshood, aptly named and vibrantly purple.

Twinberry

Bear-enticing berries were all around, as well. We didn’t encounter a black bear or grizzly while we hiked, but we could tell we were in prime bear country. This, I believe, is Twinberry, or Utah Honeysuckle.

All around, we could see how glaciers have shaped the environment. At some point, a glacier carried and deposited this giant boulder onto the hill on which it now sits.

This is Mount Moran, as viewed from Oxbow Bend, a photographer’s hot-spot. I bet you can guess why! But aside from the spectacular view, this is a prime wildlife viewing spot, too (at least, it can be).

But the wildlife, oh the wildlife. We saw a little bit of everything, from Bald Eagles to Magpies; Yellow-headed Blackbirds to White-Breasted Nuthatches; lots of Ravens, Robins, and Swallows; and even American Pelicans and Sandhill Cranes. Mammals ranged from the large — moose, bison, and grizzlies — to the small — chipmunks, mice, and squirrels.

Moose favor aquatic vegetation, and that’s exactly where we found this big bull moose, not too far from our campground.

The evening before, in the same area, we found a female moose.

And on our last day in Grand Teton National Park, we saw a beautiful mother grizzly bear and her three cubs, a couple of which you can see in the photos below.

Grizzly BearsGrizzly cub

These cubs were big but still youthful enough to play and run. One of the cubs even climbed a tree!

We were having such fun in Grant Teton NP that it was almost hard to pull ourselves away to get to Yellowstone, but we knew more adventure lay ahead. We said goodbye to the waters, mountains, wildflowers, and wildlife of Grand Teton and headed north.

But first let me tell you what this kid, our youngest, did. He declared early on in our trip the wildlife he wanted to see before we went back. What pressure to put on one’s parents, who know better that wildlife might show up — or they might not! But while Yellowstone pictures are still to come in this photo-journey, let me just let you know that we saw every one of them, starting with the big ones above.  🙂

Westward Bound: Hiking the Narrows at Zion National Park

After leaving Bryce Canyon National Park on our summer 2012 vacation, we headed southwest toward Zion National Park, also in Utah. We knew we wouldn’t have much time there, but we wanted to see how beautiful this area was, and we wanted to walk the Narrows, a slim river-carved canyon with steep, high walls. Also, we wanted to see the world’s fattest squirrel, apparently.

The sun peeked over the mountains as we rode the shuttle at Zion.

We arrived early in the morning, getting a nice parking spot and hopping directly onto the shuttle at the visitor center. The park service converted to shuttles years ago in order to reduce the destruction that millions of annual visitors and cars were causing to the natural environment.

The air was still cool that morning, but the sun was well on the rise. Extra nice was that we were well ahead of the afternoon crowds.

View from the shuttle’s rooftop window

The shuttle took us past many of the popular hiking and viewing spots, and while we could have stopped at any of them, we had one destination in mind for this short trip: the Temple of Sinawava. This was the final shuttle stop and the location of the head of the Riverside Walk trail, which leads to the entrance of the Narrows.

Zion National Park

Virgin River

The Riverside Walk trail at the Temple is quite accessible for most folks, and it’s about a mile long. As one would expect, the trail follows the Virgin River, which flowed at an easy pace during our visit.

Trickling water lets a fern-and-moss garden grow on a canyon wall along the Riverside Walk trail.

Trickling moisture on one canyon wall has created a type of hanging garden, a smaller version of a gigantic one highlighted elsewhere at Zion, the Weeping Rock.

When we got to the Narrows entrance, we didn’t hesitate, wading straight into the river. For most of the river hike, the water stayed calves-to-ankles deep. Keens or other good water shoes are necessary, and some people also use walking sticks. Be prepared to get wetter, however — in a short while, the water gets much deeper — waist-level or higher.

Narrows at Zion

Just a few feet from this spot, the water reached waist-deep for some, deeper for others. My younger son chose to stay on the right side instead of moving to the left, and he ended up swimming!

Carrying a camera in the Narrows is a tricky situation. I had to seal mine in a large plastic bag, which I then placed carefully in the backpack my oldest son carried. I figured he better carry it, since I was the one more likely to accidentally take a plunge (in fact, I once broke my arm by falling in a creek and hitting a boulder — not an act I’d recommend to anyone, especially when it’s a long walk back to the parking lot. Note: My son, who is reading over my shoulder right now, laughed and said, “So you gave the camera to the one who caused you to fall and break your arm.” What a riot, haha.).

Water flowing down one of the steep cliffs
Narrows at Zion

Note the large round rocks. These are typical of the rocks you will traverse in the river at the Narrows.

The water was cool but not ice cold. That means it’s pleasant to walk through, but it’s quite a chill thrill when it gets deep enough to reach your more delicate areas. Periodically we could hear folks screaming when they reached those deeper water areas, hehe.

Narrows at Zion

Sunlight brightens a wide section of the river, just before the corridor makes a sharp turn to a narrower portion.

A closer look at the turn ahead

The Narrows was definitely one of the highlights of our vacation. We were fortunate in the timing of our visit, as the week before our vacation there had been much rain, which makes the Narrows a dangerous place to be due to the potential for flash floods. But during our visit, there was bright sunshine, clear skies, and no rain for miles.

As for the world’s fattest squirrel, here it is:

Aside from all the other reasons not to feed wildlife at a national park, this one should be obvious — nature did not intend for this squirrel to be this fat!

I told you so.

Next time we’re able to visit Zion, we’ll stay longer and see all that we missed, and with any luck get to walk the Narrows once more. But we had to move on, as we had a long drive ahead of us — Wyoming bound!