Alaska: Sitka, Sea Otters, and the Sound

After Glacier Bay, our next Alaskan stop was Sitka, a very quaint fishing town. Originally settled by the Tlinget people, there was also a period of time in which Sitka was the capital of Russian America. After the United States purchased Alaska from Russia in 1867, the formal transfer and flag raising took place in Sitka. Lots of history to the town!

It was raining when we first arrived, but it didn’t affect how scenic the setting was. Foxgloves and other flowers added beautiful color, and many salmonberry shrubs offered plentiful fruit. The greenery surrounding us was enhanced by the dampness.

In Sitka, cedar totem poles record history or illustrate ancestry, folklore, or events of Southeast Alaskan native peoples. We found many of these along the Totem Walk at Sitka National Historical Park, a short distance from the center of town. Part of a coastal rainforest and filled with tall Sitka Spruce, the park also preserves the battlefield location of the 1804 Battle of Sitka, the last major armed battle between the Tlingit and Russians.

Though each totem pole is unique, the sculptures might use common symbols. One symbol found on many Tlingit totems is that of the Raven, an important spirit in Tlingit culture. The Raven is considered both a cultural benefactor and a trickster.

Thanks to the morning rain, large banana slugs found easy passage across the paths. Their slow pace make them pleasant photo subjects. This one was about 6 inches long.

On our way back, I found this beautiful eagle feather on the path. I took a picture of it before taking it into the visitor center to give to a park ranger (it’s illegal to keep such feathers unless you have a permit or are culturally exempt — I didn’t want someone else to pick it up and get in big trouble for having it). Then I promptly washed my hands, which I would have done anyway, but the park ranger stressed that eagles carry all sorts of yucky stuff they can spread. I noted that she didn’t hurry to wash her hands after taking the feather to the back room, however. I preferred to stay salmonella- and mite-free.

After seeing so many ravens depicted on totem poles at the park, I was amused that on our walk back into the main part of Sitka, several ravens greeted us with loud caws.

A landmark structure in Sitka is the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, rebuilt after a 1966 fire. See the two bald eagles hanging out on top?

I greatly admired this gray stone wall surrounding another church. At a modest height, the jagged top offers a slight deterrence to those who might climb over, while giving a unique quality to the perimeter.

We were amused at this intersection’s sign, bringing together the names of two of historic rivals. However, it’s likely that the Jeff Davis they are referring to is not the Confederate president but the first commander of the Department of Alaska, since he played a role in Sitka’s history. I don’t know whether Lincoln refers to the great Abe himself, but I’ll go with that.

Taking a boat in Sitka Sound, we enjoyed plentiful wildlife, and by this time the rain had ceased completely. Above is a friendly, well-known humpback whale named Domino.
Here’s what is known as a whale footprint, a slick spot that forms as a whale thrusts its fluke up and down underwater. Not only does Domino have distinct black spots on his fluke, the growth of barnacles at the tips is an additional identification mark for this handsome whale.
Near these tiny islands, mere rock outcrops, a large group of harbor seals basked, played, and fed.

There were a great number of bald eagles, almost every direction we turned.

This group of scoters included White-winged and Surf Scoters. We also saw lots of Marbled Murrelets and, of course, gulls.

The surrounding forested mountains were quite beautiful, with waterfalls cascading here and there.

Near this river’s mouth, salmon were practicing their jumps, almost ready to spawn.

A hungry harbor seal was clever enough to take advantage of the presence of so many fish.

A lone Sitka Black-tailed deer fed on a nearby shore.I can probably safely say, however, that despite the large variety of wildlife we saw in Sitka, our family enjoyed the sea otters most of all (though for some reason that harbor seal going after the jumping salmon still stays on my mind). They’d roll and preen and dive and eat, and they’d preen some more. I’m so happy their numbers have been going up — they were hunted almost to extinction by fur traders. Sea otters are still listed as endangered, however. Sea otters are a keynote species, keeping the population of sea urchins and other kelp-eaters under control and thus protecting the habitat that provides shelter and food for so many other marine animals.

The next stop on our journey was Ketchikan for some kayaking, followed by Victoria for some orca sightings. I’ll combine the two — far fewer pictures to share, as it’s hard to take a lot of pictures while kayaking!